We were out at a movie at Yonge and Eglington in Toronto (Made in Dagenham - terrific film) and went looking for a place to eat after the movie. Just south of Eglington on Yonge we happened across Zucca, a really good Italian trattoria serving simply prepared Italian cuisine with great attention to detail.
My appetizer was potato and green vegetable gnocchi with leek and Quebec blue cheese cream - utterly delicious! Kerry had a simple green salad, with a perfect (not overwhelming) dressing.
For my main I chose a simple grilled whole trout. It was perfect, moist and succulent with just a little lemon and salt. It came with grilled vegetables (potato, fennel and carrot). To be honest they were adequate but a little dry (particularly the potato slices). Kerry had a house-made pasta with bacalao (salt cod) cooked with tomatoes and white wine. It was unusual and tasty but didn't blow us away. The service with terrific - the server knew the food (and wine) and even poured us a couple of glasses of wine to compare with the wine we'd ordered.
We had a bottle of Salice Salentino 2007 (Cantele) - a nice rustic-style wine from Southern Italy. Plummy and spicy with plenty of acidity, it went well with the pasta (and ok with the fish). Interesting wine - not great but good with tomato-based sauces. Southern Italian reds look like they are going to be big in 2011 (you heard it hear first!)
We finished off with a couple of well-chosen cheeses and I had a glass of desert wine (not sure what it was - tasted a lot like a Beaumes de Venise but obviously it was Italian)
Nice meal - attentive service - I would definitely go back if I was in the neighbourhood.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Squash and Escarole Risotto/baked romaine with onion-anchovy sauce
Tonight's dinner - a really tasty risotto with butternut squash and escarole (curly endive). Peel and cut a cup of butter nut squash into half inch cubes (and another cup of thinly sliced strips) and cook the cubes with some thinly sliced onion in a cup of water. When the squash is tender, drain and reserve the squash/onion mixture. Coarsely cut a head of escarole. Cook the rice (Carnaroli) in a little oil, add a little wine (half cup) until absorbed. Add the squash and onion mixture and 3 cups of the escarole. Add a cup of good chicken stock and stir constantly while the rice absorbs the stock. Keep adding stock in half cup amounts until it is absorbed and then add more - it will require 3-4 cups of liquid to get the rice to the right consistency (tender and creamy). Lightly saute the remaining sliced squash and the remaining escarole. Once the risotto is done, spoon it into a bowl, mix in some grated parmiagiano-reggiano cheese and top with the sauteed squash/escarole mixture.
For the salad - combine a quarter cup of oil, one and a half cups of thinly sliced onions and 6 anchovies with a cup of water and simmer gently until the onion is soft (15-20 minutes). Bake a quartered head of romiane (keeping the root end attached) with a little olive oil and salt. I also baked some Belgium endive leaves as well just to see how it would work. After 10 minutes tranfer the romaine to a cutting board; remove the root ends and, using a fork twirl each piece of romaine into a circular round on a plate. Add a lttle parsley and white wine vinegar to the onion mixture and top the romaine mounds with the mixture.
The onions are unbelievably sweet but nicely balanced with the saltiness of the anchovies and the acidity of the vinegar.
For the salad - combine a quarter cup of oil, one and a half cups of thinly sliced onions and 6 anchovies with a cup of water and simmer gently until the onion is soft (15-20 minutes). Bake a quartered head of romiane (keeping the root end attached) with a little olive oil and salt. I also baked some Belgium endive leaves as well just to see how it would work. After 10 minutes tranfer the romaine to a cutting board; remove the root ends and, using a fork twirl each piece of romaine into a circular round on a plate. Add a lttle parsley and white wine vinegar to the onion mixture and top the romaine mounds with the mixture.
The onions are unbelievably sweet but nicely balanced with the saltiness of the anchovies and the acidity of the vinegar.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Washington State Wines
I am in Seattle for the next few days and tasting as many Washington and Oregon wines as I can!
Second Floor 2007 - Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon
A very pale brownish red (with brown edges). Very little on the nose but a beautiful, almost pure, strawberry flavour. 85
L'Ecole 41 - Cabernet Sauvignon Colombia Valley, Washington
Nicely balanced, medium-bodied Cabernet with black fruit/black cherry flavours. 92
Hedges Red Mountain Three Vineyards Red, Washington
Light-bodied Bordeaux blend (mostly Merlot) - slight nose but beautiful flavours of red fruits with some darker, chcolately notes, reminded me of Pinot Noir rather than Merlot 90
Nelms Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Washington State
A less expensive Washington Cabernet, jammy and slightly unbalanced but enjoyable neverthe less 75
CMS Columbia Valley 2009, Washington State
$10 - Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah blend - oddly sweet, strawberry jam, bottled by Hedges. 73
Gramercy Cellars 2007(?) Syrah, Walla Walla
Really beautiful, smoky, peppery Rhone-style red from Washington State 90
Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Great value Cabernet from Washington's largest winery. The Indian Wells is a medium-bodied Cab full of typical blackcurrant flavours and nicely balanced acidity and tannins.
Second Floor 2007 - Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon
A very pale brownish red (with brown edges). Very little on the nose but a beautiful, almost pure, strawberry flavour. 85
L'Ecole 41 - Cabernet Sauvignon Colombia Valley, Washington
Nicely balanced, medium-bodied Cabernet with black fruit/black cherry flavours. 92
Hedges Red Mountain Three Vineyards Red, Washington
Light-bodied Bordeaux blend (mostly Merlot) - slight nose but beautiful flavours of red fruits with some darker, chcolately notes, reminded me of Pinot Noir rather than Merlot 90
Nelms Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Washington State
A less expensive Washington Cabernet, jammy and slightly unbalanced but enjoyable neverthe less 75
CMS Columbia Valley 2009, Washington State
$10 - Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah blend - oddly sweet, strawberry jam, bottled by Hedges. 73
Gramercy Cellars 2007(?) Syrah, Walla Walla
Really beautiful, smoky, peppery Rhone-style red from Washington State 90
Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Great value Cabernet from Washington's largest winery. The Indian Wells is a medium-bodied Cab full of typical blackcurrant flavours and nicely balanced acidity and tannins.
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Wine Reviews
Dark, medium to full-bodied, well-balance cherry and plum with some vanilla. Excellent value wine from Portugal - mostly Port grapes (Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz). Some tannins and a long finish for a wine of this price ($12.95)
Flat Rock - Reisling 2009, Niagara VQA Thirty Mile bench
Excellent dry Riesling - typical Niagara - grapefruit/lime with great acidity ($17.95)
Hecht & Bannier - St. Chinian 2007
Fantastic - sweet fruit- forward complex wine. Lovely sweet red and black fruit - great value in a Languedoc wine ($22.95)
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Fennel soup with parmesan cream
Incredible soup tonight! I gently sauteed an onion and fennel bulb (chopped) for 20 minutes in butter and oil. Added a chopped garlic clove and sauteed for another 5 minutes. Put in a half cup of white wine and reduced it, then added a cup of chicken stock and simmered for 20 minutes. I then put in into the blender and then strained it. I heated up a cup of cream with some grated Parmesan. To serve I poured the cream over the soup and added a few croutons. Beautiful soup!
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Pork Tenderloin with Braised Fennel
Tonight's dinner: pork tenderloin with braised fennel, creamed endive and baby arugula.
I quartered a large fennel bulb and browned the cut sides in a skillet with olive oil. The braising liquid was garlic, anchovies and fennel seeds, crushed together in a small pot. I added wine wine, reduced it by half and then added chicken stock and some olives. I then covered the fennel bulbs with the stock, covered the pan and stuck it in the oven (at 320) for an hour.
The pork tenderloin was marinated for an hour in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic and sage leaves. I then put it in the oven for 25 minutes. (I served it with a little of the fennel braising liquid)
The endive was quartered, sauteed in butter and then I added a little cream.
The baby arugula was dressed with a champagne vinaigrette.
I quartered a large fennel bulb and browned the cut sides in a skillet with olive oil. The braising liquid was garlic, anchovies and fennel seeds, crushed together in a small pot. I added wine wine, reduced it by half and then added chicken stock and some olives. I then covered the fennel bulbs with the stock, covered the pan and stuck it in the oven (at 320) for an hour.
The pork tenderloin was marinated for an hour in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic and sage leaves. I then put it in the oven for 25 minutes. (I served it with a little of the fennel braising liquid)
The endive was quartered, sauteed in butter and then I added a little cream.
The baby arugula was dressed with a champagne vinaigrette.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Local Wines
As much as possible I like to use local products. Local meats and vegetables taste better - they are fresher and more flavourful than food that has traveled thousands of kilometres. By buying local products you support local farmers and the local economy.
So if you're going to eat local food shouldn't you drink local wines? Particularly as local Niagara and Prince Edward County wines have been getting good reviews recently.
Here's the problem: While white wines from Ontario are good - especially Riesling - I am not convinced about reds.
But Ontario red wines have been getting rave reviews, particularly the 2007's (often described as the "greatest vintage ever" for Ontario reds.) So I thought I'd try a few.
Here are my notes:
So if you're going to eat local food shouldn't you drink local wines? Particularly as local Niagara and Prince Edward County wines have been getting good reviews recently.
Here's the problem: While white wines from Ontario are good - especially Riesling - I am not convinced about reds.
But Ontario red wines have been getting rave reviews, particularly the 2007's (often described as the "greatest vintage ever" for Ontario reds.) So I thought I'd try a few.
Here are my notes:
Luke's Gatronomy - Kingston Ontario, Nov 26, 2010
Luke is a 19 year old wonder kid who has been training as a chef since he was 11 in his parents restaurant in Kingston. When he was 15 he became executive chef and began his adventures in (molecular) gastronomy.
The restaurant itself is small and funky. Luke's food is amazingly inventive.
We started with a charcuterie plate. All the charcuterie is made by Luke from locally sourced meat. Particularly good was a fennel flavoured sausage.
I started with the Crisp Pork Belly Pizza with thyme, potatoes, capers, olives and onions. The pork belly itself was the "pizza" - a bit disappointing. The toppings were nice but the pork belly was dry and uninteresting (and I love pork belly!)
Much better was the Tete du Cochon (head cheese) with mushroom ketchup, preserved lemon and quail egg. The Tete was marvellous - creamy and tasty.
For my main I had Beef Cheeks, which was filled with vin sauce au chocolat, sweet pea, a garlic croquette (served in a bent spoon standing in a glass) and "umami". I asked about umami, which I understood to be the "fifth taste" (according to the Japanese). It was described - by Luke's mother, who handles the front room - as a mix of different ingredients which evoke "umami". Quite honestly I didn't get it. The beef cheeks were somewhat dry although the sauce was interesting. Not really a successful dish. My fellow diners tried the Blues Junkie Goat (goat, solid yogurt, coffee dust, chilles, dates and almonds. Meant to evoke the flavours of Yemen it was interesting and tasty. The Cosmic Duck was duck confit (good) with tomato and a marshmallow (!).
Deserts were also interesting - "Serendipity" which featured chocolate and blue cheese, and "Testosterone", which had tobacco ice cream (surprisingly delicious) and scotch (in the form of what looked like a cinnamon stick).
The restaurant itself is small and funky. Luke's food is amazingly inventive.
We started with a charcuterie plate. All the charcuterie is made by Luke from locally sourced meat. Particularly good was a fennel flavoured sausage.
I started with the Crisp Pork Belly Pizza with thyme, potatoes, capers, olives and onions. The pork belly itself was the "pizza" - a bit disappointing. The toppings were nice but the pork belly was dry and uninteresting (and I love pork belly!)
Much better was the Tete du Cochon (head cheese) with mushroom ketchup, preserved lemon and quail egg. The Tete was marvellous - creamy and tasty.
For my main I had Beef Cheeks, which was filled with vin sauce au chocolat, sweet pea, a garlic croquette (served in a bent spoon standing in a glass) and "umami". I asked about umami, which I understood to be the "fifth taste" (according to the Japanese). It was described - by Luke's mother, who handles the front room - as a mix of different ingredients which evoke "umami". Quite honestly I didn't get it. The beef cheeks were somewhat dry although the sauce was interesting. Not really a successful dish. My fellow diners tried the Blues Junkie Goat (goat, solid yogurt, coffee dust, chilles, dates and almonds. Meant to evoke the flavours of Yemen it was interesting and tasty. The Cosmic Duck was duck confit (good) with tomato and a marshmallow (!).
Deserts were also interesting - "Serendipity" which featured chocolate and blue cheese, and "Testosterone", which had tobacco ice cream (surprisingly delicious) and scotch (in the form of what looked like a cinnamon stick).
Black Cod
Tonight I made Black Cod in broth. Inspired by Eric Ripert (Le Bernadin) I made two different broths. The first was a ginger-lemon broth: I sauteed garlic, ginger, shallots and forest mushrooms, added chicken broth and simmered for 20 minutes. The second broth was a sage and garlic broth. I infused a cup of chicken broth with garlic, sage leaves and a rind of parmesan.
I put the black cod skin side down (yes the fishmonger had left the skin on) in a hot skillet with a little canola oil and cooked it until the skin was crispy. I then turned it over and cooked the other side for 2-3 minutes and put the pan in the oven (at 350) to finish cooking.
In the meantime I sauteed some baby bok choy with garlic and ginger.
I strained the broths.
To serve, I placed a piece of cod on the bok choy and poured the broth into the bowls.
I put the black cod skin side down (yes the fishmonger had left the skin on) in a hot skillet with a little canola oil and cooked it until the skin was crispy. I then turned it over and cooked the other side for 2-3 minutes and put the pan in the oven (at 350) to finish cooking.
In the meantime I sauteed some baby bok choy with garlic and ginger.
I strained the broths.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)